whichtoolguide

Author: whichtoolguide

  • What Tool Do I Need to Remove Stripped Screws?

    A stripped screw head usually happens for one reason:
    the wrong screwdriver was used, or it was rushed.

    Once the head is damaged, forcing it harder almost always makes things worse.

    The right tool depends on how damaged the screw is and whether the head is accessible.

    The Short Answer

    • Lightly stripped: Correct screwdriver or bit
    • Head sticking out: Locking pliers
    • Badly stripped or flush: Screw extractor

    The more damaged the screw, the more controlled your approach needs to be.

    Try the Simple Fix First

    Before reaching for specialist tools:

    • Switch to the correct size screwdriver
    • Apply firm downward pressure
    • Turn slowly

    Many screws come out once the driver actually fits properly.

    Using Locking Pliers

    If the screw head is proud of the surface:

    • Clamp locking pliers tightly around it
    • Turn slowly and steadily

    This works well for older screws and avoids drilling altogether.

    Using a Screw Extractor

    If the head is badly stripped or flush:

    • Drill a small pilot hole into the screw
    • Use a screw extractor to back it out

    Extractor kits are inexpensive and designed for exactly this situation.

    Take your time — rushing this step snaps bits.

    What Not to Do

    • Don’t keep spinning the screwdriver
    • Don’t force the screw harder
    • Don’t drill too deep

    Patience saves tools and fingers.

    Final Thought

    If a screw won’t move, stop and reassess.

    Changing tools is faster than fighting a losing battle.

  • What Tool Do I Need to Cut Wood at Home?

    Cutting wood at home can mean very different things.

    For one person, it’s trimming a shelf to fit an alcove.
    For another, it’s cutting MDF panels or building simple storage.

    The mistake most people make is choosing a tool based on power, not the type of cut they actually need.

    Here’s how to choose the right tool for cutting wood at home — without buying more than you need.

    The Short Answer

    • Small, occasional cuts: Hand saw
    • Long, straight cuts in boards or panels: Circular saw
    • Curves, cut-outs, or awkward shapes: Jigsaw

    What matters most is how straight and repeatable the cut needs to be, not how thick the wood is.

    Cutting Small Amounts of Wood

    If you’re doing things like:

    • Trimming shelves
    • Cutting battens
    • Short cuts in softwood

    A hand saw is often the simplest and safest option.

    Hand saws:

    • Are slow but accurate
    • Don’t kick back
    • Give you more control as a beginner

    Use a saw with fine teeth for cleaner cuts, and always support the wood fully to prevent splintering.

    Cutting Long, Straight Lines

    For jobs like:

    • Cutting shelving boards
    • Trimming MDF or plywood
    • Repeated straight cuts

    A circular saw is the right tool.

    Circular saws:

    • Cut quickly and cleanly
    • Are ideal for straight lines
    • Need careful setup

    Use a straight edge or guide, measure twice, and let the saw do the work. Forcing the cut is what causes mistakes.

    Cutting Curves or Shapes

    If your cut isn’t straight — for example:

    • Curves
    • Notches
    • Cut-outs around pipes

    A jigsaw is the best choice.

    Jigsaws:

    • Are forgiving
    • Handle awkward shapes well
    • Are beginner-friendly indoors

    They’re slower than circular saws, but far more flexible.

    Common Mistakes to Avoid

    • Using the wrong blade for the wood
    • Cutting without supporting both sides of the wood
    • Rushing the cut
    • Ignoring eye protection

    Most bad cuts happen because the wood moves mid-cut.

    Final Thought

    Before choosing a tool, ask:
    Do I need straight lines, or flexible shapes?

    Answer that, and the right saw becomes obvious.

  • What Tool Do I Need to Drill Into Plasterboard vs Concrete?

    This article contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.

    Drilling a hole sounds simple — until you hit the wall and realise not all walls behave the same.

    Plasterboard, timber, brick, and concrete all need different approaches. Using the wrong tool is the fastest way to blunt drill bits, crack walls, or give up halfway through.

    Here’s how to choose the right tool without overthinking it.

    The Short Answer

    • Plasterboard or timber: A standard cordless drill
    • Brick or concrete: A drill with masonry drill bits (sometimes a hammer drill)

    The wall material matters more than the hole size.

    Drilling Into Plasterboard (The Easiest Case)

    For plasterboard (sometimes called drywall), you’ll need:

    • A cordless drill
    • A standard drill bit
    • The correct wall plug if you’re mounting something

    Tips:

    • Drill slowly
    • Let the bit do the work
    • Stop as soon as you break through

    If you’re mounting anything heavier than a picture frame, use proper wall plugs rated for the weight — or fix into a timber stud if possible.

    A set of heavy-duty plasterboard wall plugs like these on Amazon is usually all you need for home jobs

    Drilling Into Timber or Studs

    This includes:

    • Timber studs behind plasterboard
    • Wooden battens
    • Shelves or boards

    You’ll still use:

    • A cordless drill
    • Standard drill bits

    Best practice:

    • Drill a small pilot hole first
    • Use screws long enough to bite into the timber
    • Don’t over-tighten — stripped screws are very common

    Drilling Into Brick or Concrete

    This is where most people get stuck.

    You’ll need:

    • A drill
    • Masonry drill bits (this part is non-negotiable)

    For small holes in brick, a normal drill can work.
    For concrete or larger fixings, a hammer drill makes the job much easier.

    Important:

    • Regular wood or metal bits will not work on masonry
    • Pushing harder doesn’t help
    • Slow, steady pressure works best

    a masonry drill bit set like this on Amazon is usually all you need for home jobs

    Do You Need a Hammer Drill?

    Not always.

    You’ll want one if:

    • The wall is solid concrete
    • You’re drilling several holes
    • The bit isn’t making progress

    For occasional home use, many people borrow or hire one rather than buying.

    A basic cordless drill like this one on Amazon is typical of what you’re looking for.

    Common Mistakes to Avoid

    • Using wood bits on masonry
    • Drilling too fast
    • Forcing the drill when it stalls
    • Skipping wall plugs in plasterboard

    Most problems come from mismatched bits, not weak drills.

    Basic Safety Tips

    • Wear eye protection (brick and concrete dust is nasty)
    • Keep the drill straight
    • Watch for hidden cables and pipes
    • Stop if the drill overheats

    There’s no prize for finishing fast.

    Final Thought

    Before you drill, ask one simple question:

    What is this wall actually made of?

    Answer that, and the right tool choice becomes obvious.

  • What Tool Do I Need to Hang Shelves Safely?

    Hanging shelves is one of those jobs that looks simple — until you’re standing there with a wall, a box of screws, and no clear plan.

    The good news: you don’t need a garage full of tools. You just need the right few, used in the right order.

    Here’s how to do it safely and without frustration.

    The Short Answer

    For most homes, you’ll need:

    • A cordless drill
    • A spirit level
    • A stud finder (sometimes)
    • The correct wall plugs or screws

    That’s it. Everything else is optional.

    The Main Tool You Need: A Cordless Drill

    A cordless drill makes this job possible.

    You’ll use it to:

    • Drill pilot holes
    • Drive screws cleanly into the wall
    • Avoid stripping screw heads or cracking plasterboard

    If you’re drilling into plasterboard or timber studs, a standard drill is enough.
    If you’re drilling into brick or concrete, you’ll need masonry drill bits.

    Do You Need a Stud Finder?

    Sometimes — not always.

    Use one if:

    • The shelf will hold heavy items
    • The brackets are wide
    • You want maximum strength

    If you can’t fix into a stud, use proper wall plugs rated for the shelf’s weight. Avoid cheap plugs for anything heavy.

    Why You Need a Spirit Level (Even If It Looks Straight)

    Shelves that “look” straight usually aren’t.

    A small spirit level:

    • Stops shelves slanting
    • Prevents items sliding
    • Saves you redoing the job

    This is one of those tools that feels unnecessary — until you skip it once.

    When You Might Need a Different Tool

    You may need something else if:

    • You’re fixing into tile or masonry (use masonry bits)
    • You’re working with metal shelving (pre-drilling matters)
    • You’re dealing with old plaster walls (fixings matter more)

    The wall type matters more than the shelf itself.

    Common Mistakes to Avoid

    • Using screws that are too short
    • Skipping pilot holes
    • Over-tightening screws
    • Drilling without checking what’s behind the wall

    Most shelf failures are caused by the wrong fixings, not the shelf.

    Basic Safety Tips

    • Wear eye protection when drilling
    • Keep fingers clear when driving screws
    • Don’t drill blindly — cables and pipes exist
    • Stop if something feels wrong

    Slow and steady beats rushed and broken.

    Final Thought

    You don’t need to be “good with tools” to hang shelves safely.

    You just need the right tool, used the right way, for the right wall.

    That’s what this site is here for.